This blog is not about any one topic. It is about the many things the interest me and places I've been. It's about Travel, Bikes, Photography, Fly Fishing, Nature, Scenery, Projects, Genealogy, etc (the order of importance changes constantly!). Usually whatever is currently occupying my mind and time. Maybe something for everyone....or not!

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

A few wrinkles and scars, but she cleans up pretty well!

I was anxious to get this one done, tho' I still need to get a new seat and hand grips.  I've ordered cork grips from my LBS (Local Bike Shop) and they should be in this week.  Then to shellac them!  While I admit she's a little rough, I really wasn't expecting her to come out as well as she did.  Even without grips and a seat, I couldn't resist a short (very short) test ride from the house to the shop (abt 300').

So the rundown.  Tear down wasn't too bad on this bike, although, I had to take the frame to my LBS and have him remove the crank cotters for me as they just wouldn't budge (he did this for free!).  The child seat is loooong gone, thank goodness!

All chrome parts were derusted with evapo-rust, polished, and waxed.  The rust on the wheels took a little longer to remove than my last bike and the chrome is pitted, but came out shiny again.  The chain ring was also pitted on the frame side.  I'll have to keep up with a polishing/waxing regimen to ensure they don't start rusting again.  I guess this will keep a 'vintage' look about it! 

Unbeleivably, I'd thought several of the parts were aluminum, such as the brake calipers, pulley clamp, and other clamps.  Imagine my surprise when I started cleaning them to find that they were actually chrome.  There was so much dirt and graying asphalt tar, that they appeared to be oxidized aluminum!  I guess the good part, is the dirt and tar protected these parts from rust, so they actually look new!
Crank, chain ring & chain case.

Front brake caliper

Rear brake caliper

3-speed shifter

Shifter cable on pulley clamp on lower seat tube

All the old grease was removed from the exterior of the rear hub, and it appears to be in working condition (a longer ride will be required to determine if it's shifting properly).  I'm curious, but intimidated, to take it apart and have been combing the internet for old manuals and instructions just in case.  While searching for year information and viewing web images for '69-'72 bikes, I came across a site that mentioned that the year stamp on 1972 Sturmey Archer hubs was very faint.  Since I could only initially make out a 7 & a 2 (abt an inch apart) on my hub below the Sturmey Archer logo, I decided to take a closer look.  With the hub clean and polished, and some better lighting, I could make out a possible '1' to the right of the '7'.  The '1' was stamped slightly lower, and was fainter, than the '7', which initially may have made me think it was a scratch.  So now, I'm sure the hub is a February 1971 production, making the probablity that the bike is 1971 as well.
3-speed, internal gear hub

All of the bearings were dry and loose.  None of these bearings had retainers, which was interesting, so they just fell out as soon as parts were seperated!  The bearing races in the fork and head tubes weren't super smooth, but the crank and hub bearing races were fine.  After cleaning all the bearing races, new bearings replaced all the old ones along with fresh marine grade grease.

Once everything was removed from the frame, now the fun part (sarcasm).  It took several methods, and a couple of days, to carefully remove the tar that was covering the front of the forks, bottom bracket and other areas.  First washing, then a light buffing compound (Safe-Cut).  I didn't want to use an actual buffing compound, as I didn't know how well the paint would hold up.  It was so dirty and oxidized, that I wasn't sure I could resurrect it.  After hours of buffing, I managed to get most of the tar off, and the paint seemed to be holding up pretty well.  I avoided all of the decals, so they are still a little dull.  Then I waxed it with Wax Shop Super Glaze (apparently discontinued, but there is a replacement product), which is a liquid carnuba wax that goes on and off without heavy buffing.  This helped remove the last bits of tar, along with a little coaxing with my thumbnail.  The paint is faded to an army green color in some places, like the back of the rear fender, but is now shiny again!  Well worth the sore arm muscles and back ache from stooping over it!

I decided to replace the brake cables and housing, as the cables were bent or fraying, and housings were damaged in a couple of spots.  Again, supplied by my LBS, along with his usual instructions for how to replace them (he's really a helpful guy) at a cost of under $10.  I bought 50 head tube/fork tube bearings at the same time!  In reviewing photos of the same bike online, I noticed one of the rear brake cable clamps is missing, so will have to come up with something to replace it.
Brake lever and new cable

I also replaced the old disintegrating cloth rim tapes with new rubber ones at 50 cents each!  The tires are newer and will be used for awhile.  For now, my expenses are still under $100 (if you don't count the rust remover), but a replacement seat will put me over that.   Not bad for my second refurbishment, and I'm happy with her.


Reynard said...

Nice job! I really like that color of green!

Treehugger ;) said...